Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than ÂŁ7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Margaret Travis
Margaret Travis

A passionate traveler and writer who documents unique cultural experiences and off-the-beaten-path destinations.